Idu Mishmi
Other Textiles Based Craft
History
The Idu Mishmi, a subtribe of the Mishmi ethnic group, primarily inhabit northern Arunachal Pradesh, having migrated from Burma. Known for their unique hairstyles, costumes, and intricate textile patterns, they speak Tibeto-Burman and follow animistic beliefs. Agriculture is their main livelihood, while Bebejia Mishmi women excel in weaving. Weaving, especially on loin looms, is central to their identity, alongside bamboo and cane craftsmanship, preserving their rich cultural heritage.
Raw Materials and Tools
The primary materials include natural cotton and wool yarns. Tools used are the backstrap loom (tatkar), spindle (mora), spinning wheel (jatal), bamboo shed poles, and hand-operated thread mixers. The warp (sley) and weft (raas) are carefully interwoven, creating heavily patterned textiles using traditional techniques.
Process
Before weaving, Idu artisans use a hand-operated thread mixer to twine threads. Weaving is done on a backstrap loom, locally called ‘tatkar,’ with the warp stretched between bamboo poles. The weaver moves back and forth to adjust tension, using a bamboo shed pole to create two layers. The tapestry technique is used, interlacing extra weft yarns in a criss-cross manner to form intricate patterns. The weft is then beaten into place, making the process complex and time-intensive.
Design and Color
The motifs, designs, and patterns are quite complex, with symbolic meanings and usages. Idus have specific costumes for activities like harvesting, hunting, performing a dance during festivals, ceremonial rituals, etc. Their costumes are accentuated with silver and colourful beaded jewellery. The Idu Mishmi textiles predominantly bear diamond and zigzag-shaped designs, which are woven on shawls, skirts, coats, and bags in different combinations and patterns.
Product Range
Idu textiles include intricately woven jackets and blouses with vibrant patterns. Men wear Atondrey, black-and-white “war coats” for hunting, and Atokojo, a black jacket with six colourful bands. Women wear Etopolo, a black blouse adorned with bright geometric motifs along the neckline, front, sleeves, and pockets, reflecting Idu cultural identity.