Zari Zardozi
Embroidery
History
Zardozi embroidery, meaning “gold embroidery” in Persian, has flourished in Madhya Pradesh, particularly in Bhopal, Gwalior, and Indore. Traditionally, pure gold and silver wires were used, but over time, cost-effective materials like copper, lurex, and polyester were introduced. The mid-20th century saw the rise of electroplating and lacquered finishes to prevent tarnishing. Despite evolving materials, Zardozi remains a symbol of royal elegance and skilled craftsmanship.
Raw Materials and Tools
Zardozi embroidery utilizes zari, sitara, badla, kasab (cotton wrapped with gold strip), gold, and silver wires. Over time, substitutes like copper and polyester wires have emerged. The primary tools include a hooked needle (ari) and an embroidery frame. The wires are drawn through a jantri (steel plate with holes of decreasing sizes) to create fine threads. Silk or cotton threads are wrapped with zari for added flexibility.
Process
The process starts with drawing silver wires through a jantri to refine them. The wires are then gilded with gold and flattened into badla, a key material in embroidery. Various stitches and techniques, including coiling, wrapping, and layering, create rich textures. Artisans use a hooked needle (ari) to sew elaborate motifs onto fabric. The embroidery is often done on velvet, silk, or cotton, producing intricate floral and geometric designs.
Design and Color
Zardozi motifs are inspired by nature and Mughal aesthetics. Common designs include paan (betel leaf), floral patterns, patti (leaf shapes), and pachni (V-shaped motifs). The embroidery combines various wire types like salma (zigzag), nakshi (thick coiled), and tilla (flat metallic). Colors are rich and regal, with gold, silver, red, maroon, deep blue, and green dominating the palette. Glass beads and sequins (sitara) add a shimmering effect.
Product Range
Zardozi embroidery is widely used in saris, lehengas, dupattas, and suits, as well as accessories like belts, purses, badges, and jewelry. It also embellishes home décor items such as cushion covers, wall hangings, and table runners. The craft has adapted to modern fashion, incorporating lighter materials and contemporary designs, making it accessible for both luxury and everyday wear while preserving its royal heritage.