Zalakdozi
Embroidery
History
Jammu and Kashmir’s rich craft heritage is central to its economy and culture, with many families engaged in crafting or selling traditional goods. While men were historically the main artisans, women now actively contribute as artisans and entrepreneurs. The region’s leathercraft, dating back to royal rule, includes embroidered leather goods, shoes, gloves, coats, and suitcases, popular with tourists. Zalakdozi, a signature Kashmiri embroidery using a pointed crochet hook (aari), adds intricate patterns, enhancing the appeal of leather products locally and globally.
Raw Materials and Tools
Leather, dyes, adhesives, cotton, nylon, and polyester threads are key raw materials. Tools include knives, skiving machines, sewing machines, clicking dies, and cutting tools.
Process
The leather manufacturing process begins with designing based on market demand and estimating raw materials. Leather is sourced, graded, and transported for production. Different leather sections serve specific parts—butt for vamps, belly for quarters, and defective areas for tongues. Cutting (clicking) is done manually or mechanically, while skiving thins edges to reduce bulk. Lining enhances aesthetics and fit. After sewing with specialized machines, products are cleaned, quality-checked, and packaged for delivery.
Design and Color
Zalakdozi is an intricate Kashmiri craft featuring bold, nature-inspired patterns like paisleys, vines, floral motifs, and chinar leaves, reflecting the region’s cultural heritage. Artisans use a pointed crochet hook (aari) to create fine, chain-stitched designs with woolen or silk threads. Traditional colors include earthy tones, deep blues, rich reds, and golden yellows, enhancing the beauty of leather products. Its raised texture adds luxury, while the blend of traditional and contemporary designs keeps zalakdozi relevant in modern fashion and decor.
Product Range
Srinagar is the main hub for leather products and crewel work, while Udhampur, Doda, and Rajouri specialize in zari-embroidered jutis and boots. Other key centers include Dhaliki Sirajan in Jammu city and Machhedi and Bani in Kathua district. Jammu artisans primarily use sheep, buffalo, and goat leather to craft plain and embroidered leather bags, jackets, and small accessories. Their products, including embroidered jutis, are made to meet market demand, combining tradition with modern styles.
Additional Information
