Toda Embroidery
Embroidery
History
Toda embroidery, or “pugur,” is a cherished craft of the Toda community, passed down through generations. Practised exclusively by Toda women, it features red and black woollen threads on off-white cotton, creating geometric motifs. Beyond decoration, it fosters social and cultural bonds. Women from each “mund” gather to embroider shawls like the “poothkuli,” sharing skills and experiences. Though Toda men appear dominant, women uphold traditions and ensure cultural continuity.
Raw Materials and Tools
Toda embroidery utilizes a loosely woven cotton fabric, chosen for its ease of thread counting. This fabric is crafted in a single width and provides a sturdy base. The embroidery is executed using a metal needle and thick woollen threads, which add durability and a raised texture to the final design. Unlike other embroidery techniques, Toda artisans do not use frames; instead, they stretch the fabric with their fingers to maintain precision and tension while stitching.
Process
Toda embroidery follows a meticulous technique based on thread counting on coarse fabric. Women stitch from the reverse side using short darning stitches, flipping the fabric to create loops that form thick, textured lines. Without frames, they stretch the fabric by hand for tension. The embroidery aligns with warp and weft threads, producing geometric patterns. Remarkably, Toda women craft precise, symmetrical designs without measuring tools or formal numerical knowledge, relying solely on skill and intuition.
Design and Color
Toda embroidery features an off-white or white base symbolizing purity. It uses red, black, and sometimes blue threads—red represents youth and vitality, while black signifies wisdom and maturity. The motifs reflect nature and the Todas’ bond with their environment. Designs like twehhdr echo the Nilgiri mountains, peshk resembles squirrel stripes, and others mimic butterfly wings, beehives, and flowers, incorporating cultural symbols like peacocks, buffalo horns, and celestial bodies.
Product Range
Traditionally used to produce poothukuli, a thick mantle worn by members of the Toda community, this craft has now expanded its product range. Table linen, bed linen, embroidered patches, bags, pouches, and jewellery are produced that are adorned with this unique and vibrant embroidery.
Additional Information
