Lucknow Chikan Craft
Embroidery
History
Chikankari embroidery's origins are unclear, with theories tracing it to 3rd century B.C., Ajanta cave paintings, or Persian influences. Legend suggests a traveler taught it to a peasant near Lucknow. Historians argue it flourished in Emperor Jahangir's court under Nur Jahan's patronage. Initially white-on-white on muslin, chikankari now uses various fabrics and colors, employing thousands of artisans, mainly Muslims, preserving this intricate craft.
Raw Materials and Tools
RAW MATERIALS: Cotton threads; Mulmul.
TOOL: Embroidery Needles.
Process
Chikankari production involves block printing (chapayi), embroidery (tanka), and washing (dhulayi). Thousands, mainly Muslim karigars, are employed. Men handle printing and washing, while women specialize in embroidery. Chikankari features 40 stitches, including bakhia, murri, and phanda. Wooden block printing uses temporary inks, followed by embroidery. A single garment takes 10–15 days to complete in karkhanas (workshops).
Design and Color
The motifs used in chikankari are mainly influenced by nature and Mughal architecture, drawing inspiration from Persian themes. Common motifs include flowers, foliage, creepers, petals, and paisleys. The embroidery is often embellished with sequins, beads, mukaish, badla, mirrors, etc., to give the fabric a richer look. The charm of the embroidery lies in its miniature size and evenness.
Product Range
Chikankari is no longer confined to traditional salwar kameez, kurta pyjamas, and sarees. It now appears on western wear, accessories, and home décor items like cushion covers, throws, lampshades, table covers, mats, and napkins.