Kashmir Sozani Craft
Embroidery
History
Sozni embroidery originated in 14th-century Kashmir, brought by Central Asian Sadat artisans. Mir Syed Ali Hamdani introduced Iranian culture, fostering the craft. Under rulers like Sultan Shahab-ud-Din and Zainul Abideen, Central Asian techniques flourished. Persian influence deepened during the Chak dynasty, refining Sozni into the intricate art form it is today, showcasing delicate patterns and designs that reflect its rich cultural heritage.
Raw Materials and Tools
RAW MATERIALS
- Pashmina wool
- Shahtush, Merino wool, Raffal
- Silk, Viscose, Polyester, Cotton
- Woollen and silk threads
- Wooden blocks
- Chemical ink or charcoal paste
TOOLS
- Needle
- Block carving tools
- Printing blocks
- Calendaring machine
- Washing and ironing tools
Process
Sozni embroidery begins with selecting a design, drawn by naqash on tracing paper. The design is then transferred onto wooden blocks for carving and printing using chemical ink or charcoal paste. Once printed, skilled artisans embroider the fabric using woollen and silk threads with intricate stitches like satin and herringbone. After months of meticulous work, the embroidered fabric undergoes washing, ironing, and calendaring to enhance its appearance. Finally, the finished pieces are packed for sale.
Design and Color
Sozni embroidery has a rich colour spectrum and is exquisite, depicting the natural flora and fauna of the Kashmir Valley. Popular motifs include the chinar leaf and cypress tree, almonds, grapes, pomegranates, and cotton seeds, and flowers like the iris, narcissus, lotus, daffodil, pansy, lily, and rose. Typically, the pattern is bound on all sides with a ‘hashia’ border and a ‘kingri’, a smaller running ornament.
Product Range
Sozni embroidery adorns Pashmina shawls, silk saris, and viscose apparel. Various styles include “Jamawaar” (dense, all-over embroidery), “Jaaldar” (loosely spread motifs), “Butidaar” (floral or bird-inspired buti motifs), and “Palladar” (embroidery focused on pallus or borders). Each style showcases intricate craftsmanship and artistic heritage, highlighting the versatility and beauty of Sozni embroidery on different fabrics and garments.