Crewel
Embroidery
History
Kashmiri crewel embroidery dates back to the 15th century, flourishing under Zain-ul-Abidin’s patronage. This refined art form is known for exquisite designs, vibrant colors, and intricate techniques. Fine worsted wool yarn adds depth and texture to embroidered motifs. Over time, the craft has evolved into specialized techniques, showcasing Kashmiri craftsmanship’s artistic ingenuity and rich legacy. It remains an emblem of the region’s historical and artistic significance.
Raw Materials and Tools
Raw Materials: Wool (Textile), Cotton (Textile)
Tools: Hooked needle
Process
The zalakdoz chain stitch embroidery technique involves tracing designs onto fabric using perforated sheets and chalk or charcoal powder. A wooden pen called a kalam highlights outlines. Embroiderers use a hook needle called an ara kunj to create small loops, forming a chain stitch on the fabric surface. This technique covers larger areas, using tiny stitches in striking colors for figures or motifs, with the background typically worked in a single color, often in concentric circles. The stitches must be small, even-sized, and neat to ensure the background fabric is not visible.
Design and Color
This features fine chain stitches in vibrant colors for motifs and figures, while backgrounds are usually stitched in a single color. Concentric circles are often used to create a sense of movement. Stitches must be small, uniform, and neat to ensure the base fabric remains hidden, highlighting the artistry and color coordination of the design.
Product Range
Crewel embroidery is widely used in home decor and fashion. Products include curtains, cushion covers, wall hangings, bedspreads, and upholstery. The vibrant designs and textured embroidery lend a luxurious feel, making them popular in both local and international markets. These handcrafted items reflect the rich artistic tradition and skill of Kashmiri artisans.