Chamba Rumal
Embroidery
History
Chamba Rumal embroidery originates from Chamba, Himachal Pradesh, influenced by Pahari and Rang Mahal paintings. Practiced since at least the 15th century, it flourished under the patronage of Chamba rulers. Declining in the 19th century, it was later revived by organizations like the Delhi Crafts Council and artists such as Lalita Vakil. The craft gained further recognition in 2007 with its GI registration, ensuring its preservation.
Raw Materials and Tools
The primary fabrics used are mulmul, fine khaddar, silk, and cotton. The embroidery is done with untwisted silk floss (pat), originally dyed with vegetable colors but now often chemically dyed. A fine embroidery needle is the main tool, with miniature artists assisting in design sketches. Silver-gilt wire (badla) was historically used for embellishments. Traditional methods included hand-drawing designs on fabric using charcoal or perforated paper patterns.
Process
Designs are first drawn on paper, transferred onto fabric using a perforation method. Embroidery begins with a double satin stitch (dohara or dorukha tanka), creating a reversible effect. The stitch closely resembles a painted surface. Stem stitch is used for outlining, while cross and buttonhole stitches add detailing. Traditionally, unbleached muslin or handwoven cotton was used, though today, fabrics like poplin and linen are also embroidered with these intricate designs.
Design and Color
Chamba Rumals feature motifs inspired by local life, mythology, and nature. Common designs include cypress trees, lotus, peacocks, parrots, deer, and scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Krishna’s life. Some rumals depict unrelated scenes in a single frame, while others use enclosed panels. The color palette includes blue, red, green, yellow, violet, and orange, with black used for outlines. Softer shades are preferred in miniature-style embroidery.
Product Range
Traditionally used for covering gifts and offerings, Chamba Rumal embroidery now decorates caps, pouches, cushion covers, shawls, stoles, scarves, and handkerchiefs. It also embellishes household items like pillow covers, chaupads, wall hangings, and hand fans. Modern adaptations include dress materials, framed artwork, and double-sided embroidered pieces.
Additional Information
- https://handicrafts.nic.in/pdf/LIST_OF_CRAFT_REGISTRED_UNDER_GEOGRAPHICAL_INDICATION_HANDICRAFTSNew.pdf
- KAUR, J. Chamba rumal: the painting by needle. International Journal of Research Granthaalayah, 2017.
- SHRIKANT, U. Ethnic embroidery of India. Part II, Pune: Usha Shrikant, 2009.