Banaras Zardozi
Embroidery
History
Banaras Zardozi embroidery is a luxurious craft that embellishes textiles with gold and silver threads and precious or semi-precious stones. Originating in Mughal India, it adorned the attire of emperors and nobles. This embroidery enhances satin, velvet, and silk, creating items like wedding garments, cushions, canopies, bags, belts, and shoes. The fusion of Persian and Indian styles gives Zardozi a unique elegance, and the craft continues today, preserving its regal tradition.
Raw Materials and Tools
Tracing paper and stencils, made by perforating the design outline, help transfer patterns using a kerosene and Robin Blue solution. An adda (karchob), a wooden embroidery frame, stretches the fabric tightly with bamboo sticks or wooden spars. Artisans use an ari, a crochet-like needle attached to a wooden stick, for precise embroidery. Additional tools include sharp scissors, needles, and measuring tools for accurate cutting and stitching.
Process
Banaras Zardozi embroidery begins with sketching the design on tracing paper and creating a stencil by poking holes along the outline. The design is transferred to the fabric using a kerosene and Robin Blue solution. The fabric is then stretched on an adda (karchob), a wooden frame adjustable to the fabric’s size. Using an ari (a crochet-like needle), artisans pass threads above and below the fabric, working meticulously to create intricate designs.
Design and Color
Banaras Zardozi embroidery showcases intricate floral, paisley, and geometric patterns inspired by Mughal and Persian art. It features metallic threads, sequins, beads, and gemstones, with motifs like peacocks, vines, and lotus flowers. The color palette includes deep reds, royal blues, rich golds, and vibrant greens, often set against dark velvet or silk. The use of gold and silver threads enhances its luxurious appeal, making Zardozi a symbol of opulence and Banaras heritage.
Product Range
Zardozi embroidery enhances wedding outfits, coats, cushions, curtains, canopies, bags, purses, belts, shoes, and even animal trappings, turning them into exquisite works of art. Typically crafted on rich fabrics like silk, velvet, and satin, this opulent embroidery adds a regal touch, showcasing its timeless elegance.