Ari Work
Embroidery
History
Aari embroidery originated in Gujarat, particularly in the Banaskantha district of Kachchh. Traditionally, it was used to decorate household objects and leather goods, later transitioning to fabric embellishment. The embroidery evolved from the skills of cobblers who adorned shoes, bags, and camel saddles. Over time, it became a refined craft, practiced on textiles using intricate stitches and fine motifs inspired by nature, mythology, and tradition.
Raw Materials and Tools
The primary materials used in Aari embroidery include fabric, embroidery thread of varying thickness, and embellishments like beads, sequins, and mirrors. The main tool is the ari (awl), originally crafted from umbrella wire or bicycle spokes. The fabric is stretched on a karchob (rectangular frame) with horizontal and vertical bars for support. The karchob ensures precise tension, enabling artisans to work with accuracy and comfort for long durations.
Process
The fabric is fixed on the karchob, ensuring the correct alignment. The embroidery is done using the ari, with techniques like bal tanka (twisted chain stitch), but (chain stitch for filling), jali (net effect), and lote (long chain stitch). Kachchi embroidery, a variation, is done without a frame, reflecting its origin in leatherwork. Artisans use one hand to guide the thread underneath while stitching intricate designs on the surface.
Design and Color
Aari embroidery is known for its floral, animal, and geometric motifs, often inspired by nature, mythology, and traditional themes. The designs are highly intricate, featuring fine detailing and symmetrical patterns. The embroidery is characterized by vibrant and contrasting colors, enhancing its visual appeal. The use of bright shades like red, yellow, green, and blue creates a striking effect, making the embroidered fabric visually rich and decorative.
Product Range
Aari embroidery is widely used in textiles and fashion. Traditional and contemporary products include sarees, dupattas, lehengas, kurtas, handbags, cushion covers, bedspreads, wall hangings, and footwear. It is also used in home furnishings and decorative items. The craft has adapted to modern trends, making it a popular choice for high-fashion garments and accessories while preserving its cultural heritage and traditional craftsmanship.